Canvas for Culinary Creativity
What does it mean when we say a sandwich is a canvas for culinary creativity? Literally a sandwich can be a combination of any ingredients from any place. And, lots of places around the world have their own iconic sandwiches. There’s American standards like grilled cheese, po’ boys or peanut butter and jelly, Vietnamese Bánh Mì, Venezuelan-style Arepas, Polish Zapiekankas, French Croque Madame, Italian Panini, and Mexican Tortas. But, what happens when you combine sandwich styles? Creativity for sure. And, if you are lucky, you get a masterpiece like Eddie Hernandez’s Ham and Egg Torta.
Who is Eddie?
Over thirty years ago Eddie Hernandez came to the US from Mexico with his rock and roll band. He spoke no English, but learned fast, and along the way returned to cooking over rocking and rolling. Eddie’s philosophy can be summed up simply, “In Mexico, we eat what we like. We take shortcuts. We improvise. We adapt to whatever is around us. That’s what makes us such good cooks.” He is now the executive chef of Taqueria del Sol, a top restaurant chain in Georgia and Tennessee. Along with his partner Mike Klank, Eddie was nominated for a 2017 James Beard Outstanding Restaurateur Award.
We’ve been big fans of Taqueria del Sol for years (despite the taco versus sandwich thing).
So when we had the chance to share Eddie Hernandez’s Ham and Egg Torta as a special sneak preview at his new cookbook, we jumped. Turnip Greens & Tortillas explores the shared similarities of Southern and Mexican food. Below we can share the magic that happens when “a born-again Southern boy” combine cuisines…all in a sandwich!
The Story behind Eddie Hernandez’s Ham and Egg Torta
“The breakfast sandwich in Mexico came long before the Egg McMuffin. It starts with a really good roll. If you have some homemade bolillos, you are halfway there. A crusty French roll will work, too. I really like the combination of ham and eggs, even if it’s just pressed, packaged lunch meat—one of the few smoked meats Mexicans could afford. But by all means use some high-quality mortadella or prosciutto if you have it. Smear both sides with mayonnaise, add a slice of really ripe and juicy tomato, some avocado and onion, and a runny fried egg. The only thing I recommend is that you never eat and drive with this torta, or you will have egg yolk all over the steering wheel and your pants, though it is well worth the mess!”
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Bread Makes the Tortas
“Bolillos (buh-lee-os), yeast rolls that are crispy on the outside and soft and light in the middle, are made throughout Mexico and are not unlike a large Southern dinner roll. But they are used mostly for the sandwiches called tortas. Although bolillos are traditionally shaped into ovals and slashed down the middle before baking, I prefer to roll them into rounds because this shape holds fillings better. You can also roll them into smaller appetizer sizes. I also use this recipe to make flour tortillas. Traditional flour tortillas are made with baking powder and lard, but I like the yeasty, bready flavor of these even better than the ones I used to make with my mom. These tortillas are versatile and may be fried until crispy as a base for pizza toppings, or folded over a sweet or savory filling for a deep-fried turnover.”
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NOTE: Recipe Photos © 2018 Angie Mosier
EDDIE HERNANDEZ is the executive chef of Taqueria del Sol, with locations in Georgia and Tennessee. He and his business partner, Mike Klank, were nominated for a 2017 James Beard Outstanding Restaurateur Award. His recipes have appeared in Bon Appétit, Food & Wine, Southern Living, and Garden & Gun. He came to the U.S. to play rock and roll with his band, has been mayor of a small town in Texas, and a member of the local fire brigade before returning to his first love: cooking.
SUSAN PUCKETT, the former food editor of the Atlanta Journal-Constitution, has written for Eating Well, National Geographic Traveler, and Atlanta Magazine. She is the author of Eat Drink Delta: A Hungry Traveler’s Journey Through the Soul of the South, and has co-authored and collaborated on many others.
Click here for more information about Eddie Hernandez’s Ham and Egg Torta and the new cookbook Turnip Greens & Tortillas.
